CHANEL SPRING/SUMMER 1993 BLUE WHITE TWEED CC LOGO BUTTON SKIRT SUIT

Blue tweed two-piece skirt suit from Chanel’s Spring/Summer 1993 ready-to-wear runway show under the artistic direction of Karl Lagerfeld.

“Lagerfeld’s main conceit for the season was to pair the house’s tweed jackets with logoed men’s briefs à la Calvin Klein.”, noted Vogue in January 1992. “Unlike the Marky Mark and Kate Moss ads of the same year, at Chanel the effect wasn’t sizzle but camp. Men’s briefs, Lagerfeld told the New York Times, are “the last thing women haven’t taken from the men.” Ultimately, though, the real news here was in the hyper-femininity of the opening look’s back-zipped corset and the generous 18th-century-style décolletage it created. This was the erogenous zone that would interest Lagerfeld for the next few seasons. Another way that the designer played with the innerwear-as-outerwear trend was to pair bras, rather than shirts or tees or tanks, with tweedy jackets. There was also a series of floaty romantic embroidered dresses in the softest of pastels. The collection’s voulez-vous couchez avec moi came at the finale, when Lagerfeld sent out a parade of cool, virginal white summer dresses that seemed to have been assembled using the contents of a linen closet and featured embroideries and openwork typically used for bedclothes.

Blue

Tweed

Jacket:

Size: FR42 (true-to-size).

Bust: 20 in / 50 cm.

Waist: 18 in / 46 cm.

Length: 26 in / 66 cm.

Sleeve length: 23.5 in. / 59 cm.

Shoulder length: 16 in. / 40 cm.

Skirt:

Waist: 13.5 in / 34 cm.

Length: 28.5 in / 72 cm.

Materials: Wool, silk. 

Made in France. 

Provenance:

From the personal collection of Karen Mulder.